What are the dimensions of the 16 inch wheels? 

Their size is 16" x 8 ". The offset is 55 mm. Stud attachment circle diameter is 120.7 mm. Stud size is 5-M12 x 1.5 - 6H THD metric. 

What tire options are available? 

All Z28s, Formulas, and Trans Ams come with Good Year Eagle GA (235/55R16) touring tires as stock. Options for Good Year Eagle GS-C (245/50ZR16) tires (option QLC) or Good Year Eagle RS-A (245/50ZR16) tires (option QFZ) are also available. With either of these Z-rated tires, the car gets a the 155 MPH speedometer and does NOT have a speed limiter. This is because GS-Cs and RS-As are Z-rated for speeds over 165 MPH. In 1993 and 1994, only the QLC option was available. In 1995, the QFZ option became available, but it was required for all cars with traction control (ACS). In 1996, QFZ became the "recommended" tire for traction controlled cars, but QLC could be ordered. 

How should I rotate my tires? 

Wheels on the 4th generation f-bodies have the same off-sets on the front as they do on the back. This is unlike some of the 3rd generation cars which have different front and rear wheel offsets. In this case you have to remove the tires from the wheels and move the tires to a different wheel (while keeping the wheels in their respective place). This is not a problem on the 4th generation since all the wheels are exactly the same. You can rotate from front to back (usually every 5,000 miles), but if you have Good Year Eagle GS-Cs make sure you keep the left side on left and the right on the right, since the tires themselves are directional. 

How come my GSC tires are showing such excessive wear? 

That all depends on your driving habits. Obviously, the harder you drive (take-offs, cornering, etc.), the more wear and tear you're going to put on the tires. Be careful though not to gauge the "wear" based on the outer edge of the tire. Look at a set of new GSCs carefully. The tread depth of the grooves is shallower on about the outer 1.5 inches of tread. There is a very obvious step in the mold at the bottom of the grooves. This is done to make the tread stiffer at the outer edge to improve performance. But a side effect is that the outer edge is going to look worn out before the tires are used up. In fact, they probably have their best performance when that outer 1.5 inches goes bald. This is how Yokahama 008s autocross tires look when they are new. You should definitely replace your GSC tires once you hit the tread wear indicators on the inner two-thirds of the tire. You might also want to get an alignment with a negative camber (around -0.5 to -1.0) to reduce the amount of uneven wearing. 

Is it normal for the rear tires to be rubbing against the wheel well?

The rear tires on 4th generation f-bodies will rub at the front of the wheelwell under hard cornering. This is caused primarily by the body moving laterally, due to the soft rubber in the panhard bar bushings, with possibly some panhard bar flex as well. It can be lessened by installing poly bushings or an aftermarket bar (which usually comes with harder bushings). It is conceivable that there might also be some deflection in the rear control arms/bushings which contributes to this. But in any case, the rubbing is cosmetic only, and it shouldn't be damaging the tires. 

How much backspacing is required for the wheels? 

5 and 3/4 inches. 

What is the widest tire I can use? 

Assuming you've gone to a 17" wheel, 275s should fit without any problems. You should even be able to get away with 285s. As for 315s, they will stick out from under the wheel well, but not excessively. If you have a stock panhard rod, it's likely they will rub in inner wheel well under hard and uneven cornering, possibly resulting in loss of control of the vehicle. But a stiffer panhard rod and jounce bumper spacers (available from SLP), you'll be much safer. The spacers ensure the tire won't hit the outer lip of the fender. If you go to 315, it's suggestible to go with at least a 1/4" offset spacer on each rear wheel (available through SLP). Mr. Gasket also makes wider spacers. Summit carries them in 7/32" and 7/16" sizes (part number 2370 and 2372, respectively) for $20 a pair. You shouldn't need spacers for the front wheels and it's probably not suggestible because of the additional stress the new angle would put on suspension components. 

How can I get another locking lug nut key? 

When you bought your car, you should have received a small, double-business- card-sized piece of paper that had the serial number of the locking lug nut key for your car. Different cars have different keys. Extra keys can be ordered from Amcor (12955 Inkster, Livonia, MI 48150, 800-831-9604). Their hours are 9AM - 11AM and 1PM - 4PM CST. Keys are $10 each and can be shipped overnight. If you lost the serial number, Amcor will not give you a key. If you're fortunate enough to still have the original key (but no serial number), then you can send your key to Amcor and they might be able to match it up. But make sure you take off the locking lug nuts first just in case you have to remove a tire while Amcor has your key. And, GM does NOT keep a database of keys to cars. If you loose the key and the serial number, the you're out of luck. You'll have to have the locking lug nuts cut off with a power hammer. This will occasionally ruin the lug stud (requiring its replacement), and it could also damage the wheel. But you really don't have a choice considering you lost both the key and the serial number. It's highly suggested that you write down your serial number in your owners manual or someplace where it won't be lost. It's also suggestible to order an extra key just in case you lose the original. 

Why are 1993 front brake pads different from the 1994 and up models? 

According to the "Parts & Illustrations Manual", the 1994 front caliper housing for the pads was modified thereby requiring thinner pads. Aside from the housing, all other parts (the piston, seal, pins, etc.) are the same. The 1993 housing assembly has part numbers 18018730 (right) and 18018731 (left) with the front brake pads as #12510027. The part numbers for the 1994 (and up) housings are 18021251 (right) and 18021252 (left) with the front pads as #12370006. Visually, the 1993 housing is rectangular (looking perpendicular to the hub axis) while the 1994 (and up) housing is more trapezoidal. Also note that these part numbers hold true for both the V6 and V8 models, and that there is nothing different about the rear brake assemblies or pads between these years. 

What are the best replacement brake pads to use? 

GM probably make the best stock replacement pads which will last the longest and provide adequate stopping power. However, if you're looking for improved braking ability from pads, your best bet is go with a set of carbon metallic brake pads. Performance Friction (available through Auto Zone) makes some of the best sets of these pads:

       Pad Type     Front part#/cost   Rear part#/cost
       --------     ----------------   ---------------
       Street        6234 / $39.92      4134 / $49.98
       Z-rated       623Z / $95.62      413Z / $90.62
       90-compound   14.4 / $197.65     13.4 / $128.70
       Winston Cup   702F / $300        702R / $300 

The Street pads are the basic replacements and provide marginally better stopping power over the GM pads. The Z-rated pads are street/strip combo and work excellent with minimal fading and dusting. The 90-compound pads are meant for hard race track driving. They dust a lot, but provide the best stopping power short of the Winston Cup pads. For those, you'll have to talk to Dale Earnhardt. 

What's that metal squealing noise from the rear on high speed turns? 

Assuming that you haven't completely run a brake pad down the metal plate, this noise can come from C-clip axle end play. This moves the rotor closer and father away from the caliper mount. When the edge of the rotor touches the caliper mount, you will hear the noise - usually only when turning in one direction (i.e. rotor moves out enough to hit in only one direction). The Caliper mount can be relieved in the area that it touches or the caliper mount can be shimmed. Keep in mind, if this was not a problem, GM would not have shims. In the 1994 service manual, information on this can be found under "Brake Caliper Alignment" in section 4B - page 27 (4B-27), entitled: "Rear axle assembly with rear disc brakes" (figures 1 through 4 and 38). There is however a Technical Service Bulletin (#474201A) for this which you should advise your GM service person about. 

Can I bleed ABS brakes without a problem? 

Yes, although the preferred method is pressure bleeding and using the Tech1 service tool. But you can do a manual bleed if you make sure the ABS system was not active during the last drive. Just start your car and watch the ABS IN-OP light. If it stays on for 3-4 seconds and goes out, all is fine for a manual bleed. If the light stays lit for 10 seconds or more, an error is logged and the Tech 1 tool must scan and clear the code before you bleed. For manual bleeding, make sure you bleed the system in the proper order. There are 2 bleeder points on the ABS unit itself that must be bled first. Then the bleed each brake in order of furthers from the master cylinder. Rear passenger first, then rear driver, then front passenger, and finally front driver. 

What types of higher performance brake fluid are available? 

Various ones are available and can be safely used:

Brand            Dry boil     Wet boil     DOT     Price/pint
-----            --------     --------     ---     ----------
Prestone HD         ?           284 F       3         $3.00
Ford               550 F        284 F       3         $3.50
PFC Z-rated        550 F        284 F       3         $7.00
Castrol LMA        446 F        311 F       4         $3.00
ATE Super Blue     536 F        382 F       4        $12.00
(1 liter)
Wildwood Hitemp    570 F         ?                    $7.00
(3/4pint)
AP550             >550 F         ?                   $13.00
AP600             >572 F         ?                   $21.79
Castrol SRF        590 F        518 F                $35.50

4.5 Exterior Related 

Where can I find 24 inch replacement wiper blades? 

You can get them from GM, but be prepared to sign loan papers. Otherwise, check at your local Wal-Mart. It's unlikely you'll be able to find just blades which work with the existing frame, but Lexor makes a blade and frame which can replace the stock ones perfectly. 

How can I take my wiper arms off? 

Stop the wipers in the "up" position by turning off the ignition with the wipers on. Mark their positions on the windshield. (Don't turn on the ignition until reinstalling the wiper arms.) Open the hood. For each wiper arm, first pull up the plastic piece covering the base of the arm. It can be raised by pulling out the two tabs that clip it down to the base of the arm. If you want to totally remove it, pull on the cover to disconnect the hinged end. Remove the nut that holds the wiper arm on and pull the wiper arm to its fully raised position (as if you were cleaning the windshield). Wiggle the arm around while applying a little pulling motion and it should come right off. 

Can I replace my fixed mast antenna with a retractable one? 

Yes. The Pontiac part number for the 95's is 100098596 and the Chevy part is 10269281. The list price is $87.33 and the kit includes everything except the harness from the radio to the antenna. You probably should get that harness (part number 12117322) as it will make wiring the antenna easier. You might also try RK Sport (619-433-1663) for their whole kit. All radios have a provision for switching the relay on the power antenna. You have to run two wires to the antenna from the front of the interior. This will require removing the radio, passenger seat, passenger side kick panel, rear seat cushion, spare tire, and the spare tire cover. The up-down relay power (orange wire) will come from Pin 8 on the back of the radio. You will find Pin 8 in the upper connector of the two piggy-backed connectors at the back of the radio. (The other connector port on the back of the 1995 and on radios is for the remote CD player.) You can purchase a connector lead from any auto store. Get the ones for the micro-pack connectors. Just crimp these connectors to the proper gauge wire and insert them into the connector body. Then plug the connector into the radio. The other wire (red) that you need to run is for the power. You can run this to the unused radio accessory port on the IP fuse panel. Finally, just ground the third antenna lead (black wire) to the antenna bracket. Installing the power antenna assembly itself is simple, but it does require drilling a hole for the antenna drain. Below the antenna mounting bracket is a flat area that is used for this. Run your hand across this area and you'll find it. Drill a 1/2 to 3/4 inch hole here. Be careful because the rear bumper facia is on the other side. Once the hole is drilled, trim the drain tube, and install it. The factory antenna comes with this attached. You should also purchase the tool for removing the antenna nut located on the outside of the fender. Call Kent-Moore (800-345-2233) for this tool. 

What is causing the scratches on my door window? 

The window alignment needs to be adjusted from inside the door (taking the inside door panel off). There is a Technical Service Bulletin (#651023) which addresses this problem on 1993 - 1995 cars. 

What are the plastic blocks under the car that say "Don't Jack Here"?

Those blocks are actually spots for jacking up the car, but the label says 'Do not jack here' really means 'Do not jack in front of the plastic block or at the ridge'. If you refer to the Helm manual, one of the drawings indicated that it is one of the proper front jack points. 

How can I change my fog light bulb? 

You should be able to get at them from under the car (on jack stands). First remove the air dam and then pull 3 of the "pop clips" that connect the black plastic piece to the part of the lower front fascia that curves up under the car. This will expose the washer reservoir (opposite the radiator). There are also a couple of screws on each side that need to be removed. Then pull the whole piece out. You can see the wire loom that goes into the back off the fog lights (one per side). Turn these a 1/4 turn (just like pulling a taillight or turn signal light) and they come out. Unclip the old light (be careful not to break any clips) and install the new one. These light bulbs are halogen and will explode if scratched or dropped and they're expensive (about $9.99). Finally, reinstall the bulb, make sure it works, and then put everything back together. If your fingers are nimble enough, you can replace them from the front. You just need to pry the two pull-retainers on both sides of the fog light out with a small flathead screwdriver. The one closest to the middle of the car will be the hardest to remove and put back in. You will also need to remove the aiming screw and spring. Then the fog light can be removed. A pair of small needle-nose pliers makes re-installation easier. 

Why do my headlights flicker when I drop down to 1500 or 1750 RPM? 

This seems to be from the electric AIR pump turning on and off while the engine is cold. The pump cycles when the engine is cold (hence set very rich by the computer) to add additional air into the exhaust stream for a more complete burn by the catalytic converter(s). The only reason you notice it more at low RPMs is that the alternator works a little harder to adjust to the change in load. It is not a problem. It is the same effect as your house lights getting dim momentarily when you turn on the vacuum cleaner. You will probably see a momentary dimming of the interior lights as well when this happens. You should also see the flicker when you flip the fan switch at idle. 

How can I disable my daytime running lights and ambient light sensor? 

First, gently pry off the plastic plate covering the climate controls and stereo. Next, remove the wire cluster(s) from the light and/or convertible top switch (if applicable) so you can get the plastic plate totally out of the way. Then remove the stereo deck with a 7mm socket. You can let it hang and rest on the seat or remove the wire cluster from the back to completely remove it. If you look directly behind where the stereo deck was mounted, you will see a small black box with two wire clusters attached to the top of it. This is the daytime running light (DRL)/ambient light sensor module. Remove the module from the back of the vent where it's mounted by pulling up and out. Upon inspecting the two wire clusters connected to the module, you will notice one wire cluster on the right is larger and has a black connecting piece, and the one on the left is the smaller wire cluster and has a blue connecting piece. Pull out the smaller wire cluster with the blue connecting piece (you can tape it to the wire or just let it hang). Finally, snap in the module back in place and reassemble your dash board. It's important not to remove the large wire cluster (black connecting piece) or the whole module itself, as it controls the turn signals as well. 

What are those dimples/dents on the top of my rear quarter panels?

These seem to be due to the shock absorber mounts. The rear quarter panels are sheet metal (as opposed to the rest of the body which is fiberglass except for the hood). They do not seem to form or worsen over time so it's most likely they came from the factory this way as "birthing marks". They're not very noticeable unless you look at an angle. It's right by the antenna on the right panel and in the same location across on the left panel. 

Where can I get a Ram Air, Firehawk, or SS hood? 

Currently, the Firehawk and SS hoods cannot be ordered without a valid VIN of an existing car with documentation of an accident requiring replacement of the hood. But since the WS6 Formulas and Trans Ams aren't considered special production vehicles, it's likely you'll be able to get the Ram Air hood from Pontiac. Your best bet is to go through Craig Clower at Buz Post Motors, Inc. in Arlington, Texas (800-375-7678) who can order the following:

   Part No.      Description           Wholsale / List Price
   ---------------------------------------------------------
   12529226  Ram Air hood               $1131.00   $1508.00
   12529242  Duct-A/CL                  $67.50     $90.00
   12529240  Hose-Pump                  $25.69     $34.25
   12529235  CVR-A/CL                   $125.25    $167.00
   25096933  Air filter                 $19.11     $27.98
   12529823  Cover                      $162.75    $217.00
   14104835  Bolts and screws (4)       $10.20     $13.60
   12529227  Left screen                $54.00     $72.00
   12529228  Right screen               $54.00     $72.00

Total works out to $1649.50 wholesale and $2201.83 list. If Buz Post ships direct to you, you pay list. If it's shipped to a body shop, then the shop is charged wholesale. This is because selling to the general public at body shop prices (wholesale) is forbidden by the powers above. So you might want to work out a deal with a body shop so that they make the $320 markup on the parts and in exchange, paint the hood at a discount (approx $200). However you work it out, look for a total parts, labor, and materials cost of $1500 to $1700. To save some cash, don't pay to have the induction parts installed as it only requires a screw driver and about 20 minutes of your time. If you are mechanically inclined enough open the hood, you can install these parts. If you have a Camaro or you're looking for a cheaper set up, there are a number of companies which make aftermarket hoods. American Sports Car Design (800-579-0777) makes a "big-block" hood (very similar SLP hood on the SS) which is available for the Firebird or Camaro. Suncoast PGI (888-255-8900) makes a very close WS6/Firehawk-looking hood also available for the Firebird or Camaro. 

What aero (dress-up) kits are available for the Camaro? 

The following companies offer a variety of kits including ground effects (side skirts), hoods, scoops, and spoilers: LG Motorsports (214-272-7753) - ground-effects and rear spoiler RK Sport (619-433-1663) - ground-effects, rear spoiler/wing, hoods Callaway (800-231-1121) - replacement nose, side panels, rear panels Wings West (714-722-9995) - ground-effects, rear wing American Sports Car (800-579-0777) - hoods, scoops, aerobody Doug Rippie Motors (612-559-7605) - ground-effects Paxton (805-987-5555) - ground-effects, rear spoiler 

Which cars came with the speed limiter and 115 MPH speedometer?

All cars that came with stock touring tires (Good Year Eagle GA 235/55R16) were speed limited to 108 MPH. In addition, they got a 115 MPH speedometer. Cars opting for the QLC package (Good Year Eagle 245/50ZR16 GS-C tires) or the QFZ package (Good Year Eagle 245/50ZR16 RS-A tires, available in 1995 and after), automatically got the 155 MPH speedometer and did NOT have a speed limiter. This is because GS-Cs and RS-As are Z-rated for speeds over 165 MPH. Any car leaving the factory with a Z-rated tires, should also have the 155 MPH speedometer and no speed limiter. 

What's "performance mode" button for on some of the Pontiacs? 

This button was added to 94 Formulas and Trans Ams with automatic trannys. In "normal mode", the transmission gives much smoother shifts and the shift points were done at a lower RPM/MPH. In "performance mode", shift points were raised to higher RPM/MPH and shift were crisp and quick. At wide open throttle (WOT), 1-2 and 2-3 shifts chirps the tires right from under you. Plus little throttle effort was required to force a downshift to get power right up in the 3-4K RPM range. Z28s do not offer this; however, they are always in "performance mode". 

Why does my emergency brake always seem to pull up to a different level? 

This seems to be normal, although you may want to check the emergency brake cable under the car, on the driver's side in the rear, where it splits into two cables. There's a bracket molded into the floorpan that holds the two cables going to each rear wheel. Check to see if the cables are properly guided through the bracket holes rather than outside of them. If they are not properly guided through, then release the emergency brake, and pull on each cable until they slide back into the holes in the bracket. 

Why do objects seem to be distorted through the front windshield?

This seems to be a problem due to the rake of the windshield and its general form. The distortion isn't noticeable on all cars, but it is turning out to be more common than previously thought. Mostly taller and shorter drivers will notice the distortion because the windshield seems to be distorted at the top and at the bottom. You can have it replaced, but there's a good chance the next one will be distorted as well. 

What is the Retained Accessory Power feature? 

This option leaves accessory power 'on' after you turn off the car and remove the key. For 10 minutes you will have power to operate the stereo, power door locks, and power windows. After 10 minutes (or when you open a door) the power shuts off automatically. This is part of the Power Door Lock Option (AU3) which comes with Preferred Equipment Group 2 (FZA2) on the Z28 and Option Packages B (1SB) and C (1SC) on the Formula. 

What type of impact will cause the air bags to deploy? 

A crash at 14 MPH or greater where the point of impact is within 30 degrees of the front of the car. 

What's the purpose of the steering wheel recall? 

This is recall campaign 96-C-27. GM has determined that certain 1995 - 1996 Firebird (as well as 1994 - 1996 Grand Prix and 1995 Trans Sport) vehicles may have been assembled with steering wheel redundant radio control wires pinched between the steering wheel inner foam and the air bag inflator module backing plate. The insulation on the wires may wear away over time, allowing for a short to ground and possibly resulting in the radio controls becoming inoperative and a noise being emitted from the steering column. There is also a remote possibility that the air bag could inadvertently deploy. 

Why has my cruise control suddenly stopped working? 

Check the third brake light. It seems some cars with a blown brake bulb will disable the cruise control system. If this is not the problem, then check with your dealer as there is a Technical Service Bulletin (#569002A) for this which calls for replacement of the cruise control module with an updated one. Apparently, the stepper motor is too sensitive to input from the brake pedal switch causing it not to work at all. 

Why does my "ABS In-Op" light come on intermittently? 

It's possibly a kink in one of the ABS hoses. Locate the hose that goes from the brake vacuum reserve cylinder (the big black "bowl" just above where the steering linkage comes out of the firewall) to the intake manifold. The hose has aluminized heat tape on it where it crosses the head on it's way to the intake manifold. If the hose is kinked, unkink it to restore proper suction to the reserve cylinder. Also inspect for a loose fitting on both ends of the hose. Sometimes this hose has a tendency to kink up in the middle when the cylinder fitting rotates around towards the engine too much, resulting low vacuum which lights ABS INOP indicator. If the fitting has rotated, push it back towards the fender. If this doesn't fix it, get to the dealer as you may have an electronic or hydraulic ABS problem. Also, if you just swapped gears, it could be the ABS reluctor gear. Shorter gears (i.e. 3.23) have a wider reluctor than taller gears (i.e. 2.73). If you don't swap in the correct reluctor, then it won't line up with the ABS sensor and the light will come on. 

Why does my "Low Trac" light come on intermittently? 

This light usually comes on as a result of abrupt changes in speed or road conditions. This could be from slamming the brakes or simple changes in road surface where the speed sensors detect some slip or moderation in the speed at one or both of the rear wheels. It's only a problem if the light stays on or comes on very frequently. 

Why is my Pontiac cassette radio displaying a weird error code? 

The radio will detect a number of conditions based on the tape being used, and if there's a problem, one of the following is displayed: "CLN" for clean the heads, "E10" for the cassette being too tight, "E11" for the cassette being broken, and "E13" for communication problems with the unit. Either try cleaning the unit with a cassette cleaner (available at most record and CD stores) or try a different cassette. Also, pressing the "EJECT" button for 5 seconds will clear the "CLN" message. Otherwise have the dealer check it out as there is a Technical Service Bulletin (#649004) which explains all the codes and necessary corrective actions. 

What happens if forget the code to my stereo's anti-theft feature?

In a word: DON'T! Write it down. Then again, if you're reading this, it's probably too late (i.e. you didn't write it down) and now the stereo is locked. It's probably locked because you either disconnected the battery or removed the stereo. Well you have 8 tries to put in the right code. After the 8 incorrect time, the stereo will display iNOp and you won't be given any more chances. On cars with a "Mute" button on the steering wheel controls, just press it and that will get rid of the iNOp for another 3 tries. If you don't have the mute button to reset it, turn the car (or at least the accessories) on for an hour and the iNOp will go away giving you 3 more tires. Still no luck? Go for another hour and give it another 3 tries. After that and you still don't get it, you're going to have to go to a dealer where they have a factory code to unlock it. 

Why is my CD ejected from the radio when I start up my car? 

This is believed to be related to humidity. No other details are available, but Delco is currently not going to cover any such problems under warranty. Others have said it's related to a low voltage condition at start up where the CD gets ejected to ensure it doesn't get stuck, but there's no proof of this either. However, try turning your key to the "run" (gauges light up), but don't start the car. You should hear the fuel pump priming from the rear of car. After 5 second, then turn the key all the way to start the car. If the CD doesn't pop out, you most likely have low voltage at start- up, and by waiting a few of seconds, you give the voltage time to build up. 

Is there a CD changer which works with the steering wheel controls?

If you have a '95 (or later) Firebird 10 speaker system, then your car is prewired for the Delco 12-disc CD changer and your current radio and steering wheel controls will all work with it. (This is also true of some other non-Camaro '95 GM cars.) The changer's part number is 12343958. If you have a convertible, you will need a short jumper wiring harness. For coupes, the Delco changer fits perfectly on the shelf in the left rear corner. It's a bit tight, but not terribly difficult to install. The '94 Pontiac radios were intended to control a CD changer, but they didn't get it worked out in time. If you can find a '95 Pontiac 10 speaker radio to install in your '94, you can use it along with wiring harness part #12344015. The '94 steering wheel controls will work fine with the '95 radio. Speedometer Service in Atlanta sells the 12 disc changer for $409 and the #12344015 harness for $37. Call Hamp at (800) 241-2385 or (404) 998-1666. You can also ask him if he has a '95 radio for your '94 Firebird if you want to go that route. 

Can I upgrade my stock Bose stereo system? 

There are lots of possibilities. If you just want to replace the head unit, AudioLink (800-327-5905) sells wiring harness adaptors for the Bose systems in the new GM vehicles. Pioneer and Clarion make head units that will fit in the stock location. 

Can a pre-96 CD holder piece be retrofitted in to the later Camaros?

Yes. The 1994-1995 one will fits in the console opening right under the radio. It has slots to hold 8 CDs standing up. The part number is 10247556 and it costs about $4. The holder has Velcro on the bottom, but you need to put an opposing piece on the bottom of the console opening to secure it properly. 

Can I run wires from the engine to the interior without drilling a hole? 

Yes. Remove the ECM (computer) unit (the box with the metal fins) on the passenger side rear of the engine compartment, and swing it out of the way. Directly behind it, on the firewall, is a grommet with a 1.5 inch hole in it. Punch another hole in the grommet, and put your new wire through it. The wire exits inside the car in the corner of the passenger's feet. Take off the side kick panel inside (which includes the molding on the bottom of the door jam) and you can access it. 

Where can I drill a hole to get wires from the engine into the interior? 

Open the hood and look at the firewall, all the way towards the driver side fender, below the driver's windshield wiper. You will see a large black 2" x 3" wiring harness that passes through the firewall which is secured by a nut along the top edge. You can drill a hole just off the lower left corner of this connector from the inside of the car. Start under the dash by removing the lower rear plastic panel (a couple of screws and a panel popper) that passes between the clutch (if any) and brake pedals. Locate the large connector and using a razor knife, trim away any of the black plastic covering the area where you will drill. Don't worry about neatness as this will be hidden by the plastic panel you removed earlier. Then use a spring loaded center punch to create a small dent to locate your drill bit. Be sure you punch far enough from the connector to allow the hole saw to clear the connector. Also be sure the hole is big enough to fit the wires or hoses which will pass through. It's best to wear safety glasses while drilling as metal shavings will be flying. Tape a newspaper to the firewall to catch the metal shavings which pass though the hole. Once you get a satisfactory hole, cleanup and replace the plastic panel. 

Why doesn't my headrest stay adjusted? 

This problem seems to be more common on the pre-1996 Pontiacs which came with the 6-way articulating bucket seats. During manufacturing, there was apparently a step being skipped which didn't allow the headrest to fully lock in position. Check with your dealer for corrective measures.

Why doesn't my air conditioning feel as cold as it should? 

The heat produced by the engine can sometimes warm up the air especially if you're sitting in traffic on a hot day. If you feel it should be cooler then bring it to the dealer to have them adjust the "mixer" door. That controls how much cold/hot air gets mixed in the flow. The normal air conditioning temperature is between 40 and 50 degrees F. 

Why is water leaking into my car from around the door/window? 

Check with your dealer as there's a Technical Service Bulletin (#631022) which calls for replacement of the weather stripping around the door. 

Why is water leaking into my hatch area? 

First try adjusting the rubber posts at each corner of the hatch by screwing them in in 1/2 turn increments. This will allow the hatch to close tighter thereby forming a better seal at the weather stripping. If this doesn't seem to work, then check with your dealer as there's a Technical Service Bulletin (#531032) which calls for adding a sealer to the weather stripping carrier. 

What's that squeaking noise coming from the dashbaord? 

It most likely is the dashboard. As your driving over bumps, press on it and see if the noise stops. If so, your best bet is take it to the dealer to be fixed. If you feel comfortable taking apart the dash yourself, you'll see Dual-Lock (velcro) fasteners/adhesive tape which attach to the dash. The adhesive on the fastener has probably come unstuck. Try pressing it back down or touching it up with some fresh adhesive/glue. Also be sure to check the parking brake release button. It could be rattling in the handle and the sound will bounce off the dash. 

What's that rattling/squeaking noise coming from the hatch area? 

F-bodies are notorious for their "mysterious" rattles/knocks/squeaks. The 4th generations cars have greatly reduced these rattles, but they are not totally eliminated. Try one of the following: Put some white lithium grease on the hatch latch and its shock supports. Ensure the spare tire is tightly secured in its place. Wrap some electrical tape around the rear seat posts. There usually isn't a perfect fit of the seat latches and the post causing rattling. The tape will reduce any play and deaden any rattle. It could also be the hatch. Give the rubber posts at each corner of the hatch about 1/2 turn out and then wrap 2 layers of electrical tape around the hook/latch in the middle of the hatch that the lock assembly clamps onto when you close it. It may also be necessary to adjust the whole lock assembly (up or down). Also try the B-pillar where the clothes hook is. There's some velcrose already holding the molding on. Try shoving some foam or double-face tape in there and press it down tight. This should reduce any movements and hopefully eliminate any noise. 

What's that buzzing noise coming from the hatch area? 

This is probably the fuel pump which is located inside the gas tank. It's a common noise, even among some 3rd generation owners. There's really not much which can be done about it with the exception of replacing the pump and hoping you get a quieter one.

How does the PASS-Key II system work? 

PASS-Key II works with a small resistor chip embedded in your ignition key. This chips gives a certain resistance. When the ignition key is inserted into the car for the very first time at the factory the computer controller memorizes the exact resistance of that chip and will not start again w/o it. This provides pretty good protection against all but the more sophisticated thief. A knowledgeable thief can get around it with the right equipment, but the time to steal goes up considerably. 

How can I determine a particular wire by its color and location? 

The wires can be found as follows:

   UNIT/OPERATION        WIRE COLOR            POL      WIRE LOCATION
   --------------        ----------            ---      -------------
   12V                   red                    +       ignition harness
   Starter               yellow (or purple)     +       ignition harness
   Ignition              pink                   +       ignition harness
   Accessory             orange (must enable)   +       right of dr.kick panel
   Tach                  white or white/black   ac      coil/dist. assembly *
   Power Lock            lt. blue **            5wi     either kick panel -
   Power Unlock          dk. blue **            5wi     test from pass. sw.
   Parking Lights        brown                          drivers kick panel
   Door Trigger          white                  -       behind left rear spkr
   Headlights            yellow                 +
   Wiper                 green                  +       black conn. steer col.
   L.F. Window Up/dwn    dk. blue - brown       A       in drivers door
   R.F. Window Up/dwn    lt. blue - tan ****    A       in drivers door
   Trunk Pin             same as door trigger   -
   Trunk Release         black                  +       at switch
   Horn Trigger          black                  -       black conn. st. column
   Brake Wire            yellow                 +       at brake switch
   Reverse Lights        green                  +       black conn. st. column

Why do the fans and service engine light come on just after cold start? 

It's probably a blown air pump fuse (20 amp). Take the cover off the fuse box under the hood and locate the fuse. If it's blown, simply replace it. If it keeps blowing, then you probably have a faulty air pump which should be replaced as per the Technical Service Bulletin (#636502). 

How fast is my car? 

Numbers are always different depending on who drove the car, how it was driven, the conditions of the track, how much weight was in the car, etc. And of course every car is not created equal. However these numbers, taken from the August '94 Chevy High Performance magazine, will give you an idea. GM's advertised numbers are:

   0-60  1/4 mile      Top Speed  Model
   ----  ------------  ---------  ----------------
   6.1   14.8 @ 97     155        Z28 Coupe               
   6.3   14.8 @ 97     155        Trans Am Coupe M6       
   4.9   13.5 @ 104    160        Firehawk Coupe M6 
 

Auto magazine reviews resulted in:

   Magazine  Date   Page  0-60  1/4 mile      Top Speed  Model
   --------  -----  ----  ----  ------------  ---------  -----------------
   C&D       01/93  121   5.4   14.2 @ 99        153     Formula Coupe M6
   MT        01/93  52    6.2   14.7 @ 96.9      n/a     Z28 Coupe M6
   MT        01/93  80    6.3   14.8 @ 97.6      n/a     Trans Am Coupe M6
   R&T       01/93        6.3   14.8 @ 95.5      n/a     Trans Am Coupe
   C&D       02/93  32    5.3   14.0 @ 100       154     Z28 Coupe M6
   C&D       02/93  32    5.5   14.2 @ 99        152     Formula Coupe M6
   MT        02/93  41    5.6   14.0 @ 98.8      n/a     Z28 Coupe M6
   MT        06/93  52    5.8   14.4 @ 97.9      151     Z28 Coupe M6
   MT        06/93  52    6.1   14.7 @ 97.2      152     Formula Coupe M6
   MT        08/93  82    5.8   14.4 @ 97.9      n/a     Z28 Coupe M6
   C&D       10/93        5.8   14.6 @ 97        104     Z28 Ragtop M6
   CR        10/93  682   6.6   15.1 @ 94        n/a     Trans Am Coupe A4
   MT        10/93  36    6.2   14.5 @ 96.2      n/a     Z28 Ragtop A4
   AW      11/22/93 19    5.8   14.3 @ 99        n/a     Z28 Coupe M6
   C&D       12/93        5.4   14.1 @ 101       156     Z28 Coupe M6
   R&T Spec  1994         6.2   14.8 @ 95.1      n/a     Z28 Coupe
   C&D       08/94        6.1   14.6 @ 96        153     Trans Am Coupe A4
   MT        08/94  41    5.7   14.2 @ 98.8      159.3   Z28 Coupe M6
   R&T Sport 1995   53    6.3   14.8 @ 95.5      n/a     Z28 Coupe M6
   R&T Sport 1995   130   6.7   15.1 @ 95.0      n/a     Formula Ragtop M6
   AM        06/95  53    n/a       n/a          152     Trans Am Coupe M6
   AM        06/95  56    n/a       n/a          155     Z28 Coupe M6
   R&T       06/95  79    6.4   14.9 @ 93.6      155.3   Z28 Coupe M6
   R&T       06/95  90    6.5   14.9 @ 93.9      157.8   Trans Am Coupe A4
   MT        07/95  51    5.6   14.0 @ 101.6     157     Trans Am Coupe M6
   MT        07/95  48    5.7   14.2 @ 100.2     155     Z28 Coupe M6
   AVERAGE                5.97  14.51 @ 97.36   154.46 (excl. speed limited)

  Other cars reviewed in the auto magazines include:

   Magazine  Date   Page  0-60  1/4 mile      Top Speed  Model
   --------  -----  ----  ----  ------------  ---------  ----------------
   C&D       06/93        9.2   17.0 @ 79        110     3.4 Camaro Coupe A4
   PP        06/93        6.2   14.7 @ 96.9      n/a     Z28 Coupe M6
   MT        07/93  49    4.9   13.5 @ 103.5     n/a     Firehawk Coupe M6
   MT        09/93  51    9.7   16.8 @ 77.6      n/a     3.4 Camaro Coupe A4
   CR        10/93  682   9.8   17.3 @ 79        n/a     3.4 Camaro Coupe A4
   C&D       05/94        8.9   16.8 @ 82        107     3.4 Camaro Coupe M5
   C&D       04/95        4.1   12.6 @ 114       183     Lingenfelter 383 M6
   MT        05/95  76    5.3   13.9 @ 103.6     n/a     Firehawk Coupe M6
   MT        05/95  102   7.4   15.7 @ 88.3      n/a     3800 Camaro Coupe A4
   MT Spec   05/95        4.9   13.4 @ 109.7     n/a     Rippie Camaro M6
   MT Spec   05/95        5.1   13.3 @ 113.1     n/a     Lingenfelter 383 M6
   MT Spec   05/95        5.1   13.2 @ 111.0     n/a     Paxton Camaro M6
   MT Spec   05/95        5.1   13.5 @ 107.4     n/a     Vortech Tran Am M6
   C&D       06/95        4.8   13.3 @ 109       172     Callaway Camaro C8 M6
   R&T       06/95  79    5.2   13.6 @ 110.2    177.1    Vortech Camaro M6
   R&T       06/95  89    4.5   12.7 @ 114.7    192.1    Lingenfelter 383 M6
   C&D       07/95        7.7   15.9 @ 86        114     3800 Camaro Coupe A4
 

Key to Magazines:
----------------
AM Automobile
AW Autoweek
C&D Car and Driver
CR Consumer Reports
MT Motor Trend
PP Petersen's Performance Cars
R&T Road & Track